Split, Croatia feels like a city that time has long forgotten. Sitting at it’s ancient center is a sprawling Roman palace built in 305 AD for the long reigning Roman Emperor Diocletian, and the city is still going strong after 1700 years.
A UNESCO World Heritage site, this palace that makes up the old city is considered one of the most imposing Roman ruins in the world, and contains some of the most valuable surviving buildings of the Roman era on the Adriatic Coast, with architecture that has been kept intact despite the bustling life within the palace walls that are home to about 3,000 people today.
Sitting along the dramatic Dalmatian coast, Croatia’s second largest city is an open air museum, whose living breathing structure is unlike any other city.
ITINERARY
Diocletian’s Palace
St. Domnius (Duje’s) Cathedral
Campanile (Bell Tower)
Peristyle (Peristil) Square
Statue of Grgur Ninski
The Riva (Harbor)
We traveled to Split via overnight ferry from Ancona, Italy, a city that was founded by the Greeks around 387 BC for its great strategic importance on the Adriatic Sea. Today a Cathedral dominates the city from the hill where the city’s Acropolis was built, and watches over the busy port.
I’ve almost missed 2 ferries in my life, and this was one of them. In my experience, the check-in process for ferries is often far more complex than other modes of transportation because you often have to check-in at an entirely different location than you board the ferry. Make sure you allow yourself at least a few hours, not the one hour the ferry company suggests, because leaving from this port in Ancona we had to take a shuttle bus from the ferry dock where we are standing in the photo below to another location a good 5 minute drive away, check-in and go through customs and border control, and then catch another shuttle bus back to the ferry to begin the security check before boarding.
Thankfully the trucks driving on board were later than we were, and this is Italy, so nothing is on time.
Needless to say, we were all pretty relieved and ready to enjoy the evening sail.
We didn’t have time to explore this humming port city, but the soft setting sun left quite the impression of what we may have missed.
The ferry crossing takes between 9-11 hours, and although we departed port almost 2 hours later than planned, we still arrived in Croatia on time.
We sailed on SNAV, an Italian ferry service offering international sailings, which is one of the 2 major ferry services between Italy and Croatia. The other shipping line is Croatian, not Italian. The vessel was nice and it was a smooth, comfortable journey.
Leverage some nights to travel, which allows you to see more. Overnight ferries are a fun way to travel, and allow you to save time and money on both transport and lodging by doing both simultaneously. We paid extra for a cabin with bunks and a private bathroom instead of sleeping in a chair in the main room.
An hour before we docked, an announcement was made to inform us disembarking is in one hour. I promise you won’t sleep through it.
A quiet overnight ferry crossing the Adriatic Sea from Italy to Croatia was one of our more memorable voyages.
The early arrival provided ample time to explore this small ancient city before we had to depart Split in the afternoon bound for Bosnia and Hercegovina.
Approaching Split by sea, provides a unique vantage point of the calm turquoise waters against the coastal mountain backdrop.
Disembarking was faster than expected, and at the harbor customs went quickly as well.
It’s hard not to fall in love with Split at first sight approaching its seaside promenade, but once you step into the atmospheric old palace walls, you fall harder.
A short 10 minute walk from the Marina and you’ll enter the ancient city made up of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Diocletian’s Palace, built as a military fortress by Roman Emperor Diocletian after retiring from a 20 year rule over the Roman Empire (284 AD – 305 AD) which had brought stability, security and efficient government to Romans after a half a century of chaos.
This palace is a wonderfully preserved 4th century massive complex, more of a citadel than a palace, made up of his retirement villa and military camp, and is the main attraction of the city. A labyrinth of streets packed with people, restaurants and shops, covering the entire old city center forms the beating heart of Split.
The beautiful center square of the Palace is Peristyle Square, and is the original Roman court. We enjoyed breakfast here at the Luxor Cafe and Restaurant, which is named after the Egyptian city of Luxor where Emperor Diocletian brought the sphinxes located in the square from.
Diocletian made his public appearances here, and since we got here so early, we had this historic piece of the world mostly to ourselves for breakfast. No tables outside, but instead you sit on the steps lined with pillows and are served.
All of the travelers took advantage of the cafe’s free wifi, which we especially appreciated after being on a ship out at sea all night.
The strong coffee in the summer vacation morning air on the soft worn stone steps of this ancient court was thoroughly enjoyed with each sip.
The youngest isn’t a fan of veggies in eggs, and apparently spied our plate.
But we most definitely are, and the veggie omelet was delicious and light and wouldn’t weigh us down for exploring.
After breakfast we walked across the court to St. Domnius Cathedral, an octagonal structure completed in the 7th century AD, and was once Diocletian’s mausoleum. St. Dominus was the patron saint of Split, and was beheaded by Diocletian, who was opposed to Christianity. Shortly after Diocletian’s death, Christians moved Diocletian’s remains and replaced them with the remains of St. Domnius. After visiting the Cathedral, brave the climb up the 1,200 year old Bell Tower next to it for fantastic views of the city.
The central portion of the Cathedral dates back to 350 AD, making St. Domnius Cathedral the oldest Catholic Cathedral in the world.
The altar of St. Domnius dates from 1427, and two angels stand over it.
Make sure not to miss the cathedral’s Romanesque wooden doors, which were made in 1200 AD and depict 28 scenes from the life of Jesus.
Below the Cathedral is the crypt, which has been turned into the Chapel of St. Lucy, who was persecuted by Diocletian.
St. Lucy was one of the last Christians persecuted under the reign of Diocletian in 304 AD, and she is the patron saint of the blind.
After exploring the crypt, head up the Bell Tower. Constructed in 1100 AD, it is the city’s main symbol, and is dedicated to the patron saint of Split, Saint Duje or St. Domnius.
This six story high tower tapers as you ascend to the upper levels, and becomes exposed to the elements.
From the Bell Tower you can see to the west of the city Marjan Hill, a nature reserve forested with cypress and Mediterranean pine trees.
The tower’s arched windows are a Romanesque feature that are largely unaltered since the 1000s.
Because it was early morning, there was no one else at the top with us, but it gets very crowded later in the day.
The views are worth every step.
The climb is not for the faint of heart. The top stairs are an open metal frame that shake a bit when you walk, and in the open center you can see most of the way down.
The bottom steps are not much more fun, as they’re much narrower, taller and steeper than modern day staircases.
Outside back in the court, approximately 30 stone sphinxes were brought by the Emperor Diocletian in 305 A.D. to his Palace from Egypt, originating from the period of Pharaoh Tuthmosis, and were constructed 36 centuries ago. Two of them still stand today after 3,500 years.
They guard over the imperial square and watch over the city and Diocletian’s Mausoleum, now the Cathedral of St. Domnius.
The stone monuments around the square have such fine acoustics that opera and theatre performances take place here in the summer. We were lucky enough to catch one of the acoustics demonstrations.
You can see why this Roman Emperor gave up his throne to live in this mighty fortress on the Mediterranean Sea that ranks among the most magnificent architecture on the Adriatic coast.
Today there may not be much left of what Diocletian knew, but there is enough to be awe inspiring.
Spend some time exploring the lesser trafficked streets of the old city. The ancient center is a living town, and there’s evidence of it in every street and alley.
Tucked away on a side street we discovered a fantastic coffee shop called D16 Coffee.
We also discovered an ice cream shop.
This is a walkable town with everything easily seen on foot via the same Roman pavers soldiers used over 1, 000 years ago. If you only have a few hours, this city is very doable.
There were once 4 gates at each wall of the Palace, and each was named after a metal. The Golden Gate is the northern gate, and is very well preserved which we exited to explore.
Just outside the Palace walls at Diocletian’s Golden Gate, stands the statue of a 10th-century famous Croatian bishop Gregorius of Nin who fought for the right to use Croatian during his religious services instead of Latin, which wasn’t understandable to the majority of the population at the time. This defied the pope, but helped spread Christianity in the region. Rubbing the toe is supposed to bring good luck, so don’t miss it.
Also outside of the Golden Gate is a favorite hang out of these gladiators.
We’re avid daily juicers, so nothing makes us happier than finding fresh juice on the road!
Seafood is a staple in this Mediterranean city and can be found in the Ribarnica or Fish Market close to the harbor. It’s a lively atmosphere as the merchants shout out their specials to local passersby.
Split is a pedestrian friendly city, especially along the promenade lining Split Harbor.
Split has historically been a tourist transit city, but that is rapidly changing as transits, like ourselves, are discovering how much it has to offer.
Riva Promenade is lined with tall palm trees and numerous cafes with Adriatic views.
Make sure you pick up some fresh Croatian jelly donuts sold along the harbor.
They’re bite size warm, fluffy, and sweet treats.
Before we caught our bus to Bosnia and Hercegovina, we grabbed some roadside sandwiches for the trip.
The Balkans are one of the least visited regions of Europe, but the secret is out now so they won’t be for long…Go!
