Long cut off from the modern world, this remote chunk of the glorious Italian Riviera called Cinque Terre is both a National Park and UNESCO World Heritage site made up of five fishing villages, and only recently became accessible.
“Cinque Terre”, meaning five lands in Italian, is clustered along a section of eye popping coastline, easily among the most beautiful regions in Italy, charming and breathtaking from every single angle.
These remote fishing villages that have been around since the Middle Ages fending off pirates, are now up against a different threat, this one from nature with 75% of the land at risk for landslides, and a recent near miss when two of the five villages were almost completely destroyed in 2011 after 4 hours of rain.
Cinque Terre can easily be reached via train from any of Italy’s major cities, making this jaw-dropping coastline with far fewer crowds than it’s southern sister the Amalfi Coast, a clear contender on any trip to Italy.
ITINERARY
Day 1
Vernazza
Monterosso al Mare
Day 2
Corniglia
Manarola
Riomaggiore
Day 1
Once you’ve decided to visit Cinque Terre, you’ll have to decide which village to stay in, and there’s pros and cons to each, varying from crowds, to price, to availability of options since the best rooms book up well in advance, especially during the summer peak. After many hours of research, we chose Vernazza.
Each village is quite different from one another, and though you won’t go wrong with any of them, some may be more ideal for you than others. We felt Vernazza was the most practical for us because it is relatively flat, the train platform is easily accessible from the center of town, and the village offers a variety of features with rooms available in the center of the action along the busy harbor lined with a cathedral, a beach, a castle, a pier, and numerous shops and restaurants.
It’s an easy couple of minutes walk from the train station down to the harbor, and it becomes immediately clear why this region is at risk for landslides as the hillside terrain towers above you.
Regardless of when you arrive, eating will probably be your first order of business, and you’re in luck because next to the train platform is a fresh pasta take-out joint that lived up to its online reputation.
The menu is simple, yet incredible. We sampled each of their fresh pastas, and couldn’t decide which was better, the one tossed in pesto or the one tossed in tomato sauce since both were outstanding.
After a quick bite, we went to locate our apartment, and admired everything painted in one of the “Ligurian pastel” colors, which is regulated by a commissioner of good taste in the regional government.
Needless to say, the apartment lived up to our expectations with a pristine location overlooking the only natural harbor in Cinque Terre.
This corner apartment provided stunning views in all directions, coupled with a sea breeze and a soundtrack of the bustling piazza below coming in through the large windows.
Since we spend the latter part of the day in our room due to our son’s rare genetic condition called Fragile X Syndrome, we opt for accommodations that allow us to continue experiencing the destination even from the comfort of the room where we were immersed in the sights, sounds, and smells of this village as it came even more alive at sunset with music playing, garlic sizzling, and silverware clanging against plates.
After checking in and freshening up, waste no time to get out on the trails, since hiking Cinque Terre is one of the most glorious hiking experiences in the world that can be explored by most visitors snaking along the rugged coastline.
Since Cinque Terre is a National Park, you’ll need to purchase a hiking pass which can be picked up at the train platform when you arrive in town. The pass includes a map of the trail connecting all 5 villages. We planned to hike from Vernazza to it’s northern neighbor Monterosso al Mare on the day we arrived, and to hike south to the other 3 villages the following day.
There’s a small market in town to pick up water and snacks before heading out to the trail.
The section of Trail #2 connecting the villages of Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare is the longest and most difficult section of the trail with lots of stairs and narrow passages, so it’s a good section to tackle by itself instead of combining it with other segments of the trail.
The trail between these two villages is 1.8 miles, and takes between 2-3 hours depending on your speed and how much you stop to rest or admire the views.
The views of Vernazza are spectacular as you leave town, and they keep getting better as you ascend.
This trail is considered one of the most rewarding in Cinque Terre view-wise, so take your time and enjoy the views.
Much of the trail is lined with vineyards, lush olive groves, and exotic flowers.
Rumor has it someone calculated that the ~3,000 miles of terrace walls along the ancient footpath trails contain the same amount of stone as the Great Wall of China.
The stone steps along the trail are quite steep, uneven, and not always well-kept. We found some shade to take a break and bite into the apples we picked up at the market before we left town.
Vernazza was named after the wine produced by local peasants, “vernaccia”, and you’ll pass vineyard after vineyard along this trail.
Trail #2 is the busiest trail in the Cinque Terre, and it’s also very narrow often with a steep drop on one side, making it difficult to pass fellow hikers since you have to plaster yourself to the wall to allow passage, as you can tell from the photo below how little space there is on the footpath.
Thankfully for those traveling with little ones, some sections are wider with protective fencing.
Trail #2 climbs to the highest points of Cinque Terre and winds back down so there’s a fair amount of ascending and descending.
As we descended we got our first peek past the terraced vineyards of Monterosso al Mare, considered the least charming of the five villages.
Toward the end of the trail as we neared the village, someone was selling cool, bottled limoncello in their backyard which lies along the trail and was a wonderfully refreshing surprise after a long, hot, dusty hike.
As we sipped the limoncello, we were happy to see we were getting closer to Monterosso al Mare.
The trail leads out to the sea, and then makes the turn to the last steps on the hike.
You’re rewarded with seaside views for the remainder of the walk into town.
After a few hours of hiking, it’s nice to be this close to the water and to town.
If lazing in the sun is high on your priority list, this may be the best home base for you because it is all beach.
Right outside of town is a popular cliff diving spot, and we watched folks leaping from the edge plunging into the sea, and climbing back up to do it again.
As soon as we arrived in town, a dip in the salty Mediterranean to cool off was refreshing.
After a swim, we explored Monterosso al Mare, which is the oldest town in Cinque Terre National Park, dating back to AD 643.
The old village is quaint and can be walked in just a few minutes.
We ordered some well earned gelato, and were surprised by how quiet it seemed by late afternoon.
We also picked up some Italian deserts in a local bakery that had rave reviews called “Pasticceria Laura” for the ferry ride back to Vernazza.
After securing the Italian sweets, we walked down the pier to purchase our ferry tickets and waited for the next one.
Having just arrived that morning via high speed train from Milan, and then tackling the toughest section of the trail, we were tired and ready to relax.
Torta Monterossina is a must, named after this village in Cinque Terre, which is a pie filled with chocolate and ricotta, and it did not disappoint.
Though it had taken us hours to hike here, the sail back was only a few short minutes.
It wasn’t until we viewed the coast from the sea that we realized how far we had hiked.
The first documents of Vernazza date back to the year 1080, and reference this fortified town as one of the main ports from where ships departed to defend against pirates.
Ferries are a great way to travel between the villages, with spectacular views of the shore that you can’t capture on land.
The ferries pull right up to the village harbors to drop you off, so for us this is especially convenient since our apartment was located at the end of this pier where the blue line is pointing to our windows.
Vernazza has two halves, the sunny side called the “sciuiu” or flowery side, and the shady side called the “luvegu” or dank side.
Since we were based in Vernazza, we were able to spend the afternoon swimming in the harbor located right below our apartment.
As we showered the sand off before heading to the room, we were imagining what this spot looked like in the Middle Ages when there was no beach or square, and instead the sea went right up to the buildings where boats would tie up Venetian-style.
You can stay in a larger city right outside of Cinque Terre for less, but since our time here was already so short, we felt it was worth the splurge to stay within one of the villages.
You’re paying for the location and views, which we found to be worth it.
You are not paying for space. If you do not want to be able to shower, use the toilet, and brush your teeth at the same time, then you may need to book an accommodation that is not a prime location within a village.
Vernazza is considered the “jewel in the crown” of the Cinque Terre, and historically tower-shaped homes lined the valley hiding the view of the village center to those approaching from the sea.
Beyond the town, vineyards and tiered farms with their many terraces, fill the mountainside.
Land degradation is one of the biggest threats to this area, with as much as 75% of the park’s land being considered at risk for landslides. In 2011, following 4 hours of rain, a flash flood almost completely destroyed Vernazza and Monterosso filling the entire space you see below with mud.
Vernazza’s harbor front church is dedicated to the patron saint Santa Margherita d’ Antiochia of Vernazza and was built in 1318, dominating the village skyline. It’s unusual for its strange entryway, which faces east, unlike most other churches whose entry way faces west.
Hanging on the wall within this Romanesque style interior are three historic portable crosses, which are replicas of those carried by Vernazza ships from crusades to the Holy Land.
During Easter processions, these crosses are taken down and carried through town. You are welcome to light a candle symbolizing your prayer for a loved one.
There are two paintings from the 17th century hung on the walls, and one is of the Madonna and Child.
After visiting the church we wandered across the piazza to pick up some dinner to enjoy back in the room watching the sunset.
Piazza Marconi is the seaside town square featuring outdoor restaurants and a harbor view lined with shops and restaurants.
We captured shots of the village of Monterosso al Mare across the Ligurian Sea that we had hiked to earlier that afternoon.
We gobbled up our Cinque Terre fried street food back at the apartment that we purchased from an alley close by.
As the setting sun shined through the window, we looked forward to exploring the other three villages the following day.
Day 2
After a solid night’s sleep, we got up bright and early to get a head start on our day before the crowds and to avoid hiking in the hottest hours of the day. In fact, there was not a soul in the harbor when we left for breakfast.
We sat down for breakfast at a small outdoor cafe in Vernazza before heading out to the trail.
This tiny café had quite the extensive coffee menu, and offered a variety of breakfast options including pastries, eggs cooked to order, bacon, toast, fresh fruit, yogurts and more.
The fresh juice from their juice bar was a hit, and the breakfast was delicious.
Fueled up for today’s hike, we passed signs warning visitors and residents of landslides, and we reflected on the news and footage we recalled from a few years ago when this village was almost destroyed.
In 2001 massive flooding almost destroyed Vernazza when it rained for 4 hours straight, creating landslides that filled the streets, and causing closure of some hiking trails still years later.
The streets were filled with people going about their day at the time, and suddenly they were filled with rocks, dirt, and debris up to 12 feet deep leaving entire ground floors buried. Our apartment is located here, so it was incredible to see the village had recovered.
We always prefer to purchase bottled water when traveling, but there are fountains in the villages to cool off or fill water bottles.
Some of the features of Cinque Terre look straight out of a fairytale storybook.
We set off looking for the entrance of the trail that connects Vernazza to its neighboring southern village Corniglia.
The medieval villages are designed with narrow interior arcades which are ideal for fleeing pirate attacks.
We successfully located the trail entrance with a little help from our map and locals.
The trail from Vernazza to Corniglia is part of Trail #2 and is 2.5 miles long and takes about 1.5 hours to hike. As you reach the top of the town steps, the panoramic views begin to emerge.
A watchtower is all that is left of this castle that served as the town’s lookout during the pirate days.
With each step the views keep getting better on this trail.
Hiking south toward Corniglia you will pass a series of tiered vineyards and olive groves on the Liguria hillsides, and a lot of cactus.
The grapevines are so close to the trail you can touch the grapes.
This section of the Cinque Terre trail is far less demanding than the portion from Vernazza to Monterosso that we hiked yesterday, as much of it is flat, and we saw almost no one during this cooler time of day in the early morning.
Corniglia is the smallest and the highest of the Cinque Terre five villages, and the only one without a seaport. Corniglia is also the only village from which you can see all of the other villages.
This trail is rocky, narrow and uneven, so you have to watch your step to avoid injury.
There’s a beverage and snack stop along the trail if you need to take a break and the sweeping views here are worth the quick stop.
We grabbed something to drink before continuing on to Corniglia.
There’s plenty of steep drops off on this trail as well, so use caution, though this was a non-issue for us since the trail was so quiet.
About a mile away stands Corniglia, perched 300 feet above the shore on a cliff overlooking the Ligurian Sea.
This ancient Roman village with a long agricultural history spills down the hill surrounded on three sides by vineyards and tiered terraces, which allowed locals to expand the cultivable areas.
Corniglia may be perhaps the most beautiful and charming of the five villages, as flowers bloom in every direction and it’s the least impacted by tourism, drawing fewer crowds than all of the others.
Corniglia has one main street and its buildings are shorter than those in the other villages, with one side facing the street and the other facing the sea.
As soon as we reached town we hit one of Cinque Terre’s best gelaterias, according to Travel + Leisure, to grab a cone at Alberto Gelateria (via Fieschi, 74).
We ordered one each of the traditional Italian flavors including nutella, pistachio and a sorbet.
The customer’s verdict is two thumbs up after the close to 3 mile morning hike.
Corniglia was empty when we arrived and wandered its streets, which took no more than a few minutes since it is so quaint. Corniglia dates back to Roman times named after Gens Cornelia, the noble Roman family who owned the land.
Signs of civilization in Cinque Terre date back to 2500 BC, and when we visited almost 5,000 years later, the population of this village was still only 200 residents.
During excavations in Pompeii, wine was discovered bearing the inscription “Cornelia”, which has led many locals to claim that Cornelia’s wine was so famous that even the vases found at the flourishing resort for Rome’s most distinguished citizens drank it.
We ordered coffee from one of the numerous cafes in the tiny town characterized by narrow alleys and colorful houses to enjoy while we explored this ancient village that was under the rule of the Republic of Genoa in the year 1200.
Largo Taraggio is Corniglia’s main square, an 18th century small square surrounded by cafes and home to the Chapel of Saint Catherine.
The chapel located in the central square was built in the 18th century and behind it is a terrace with views of the coast.
To reach Corniglia from the train station, you must climb a steep stairway called “Lardarina” or wait for the shuttle bus.
The long brick flight of steps is comprised of 33 flights with 382 steps, and thankfully we only had to go down since we arrived to Corniglia from the north via the trail which enters the village at the top of the cliff. Plan strategically.
The trail to the other two villages was closed due to landslides, so we caught the train to the next village Manarola to have lunch.
Manarola is one of the oldest of the five villages in Cinque Terre, and heavily trafficked with its small port nestled between two rocky cliffs in the valley of the Groppo Stream lined with multi-colored Genoese tower houses.
There is only one main artery leading from the water up through town, and the train drops you off right on this main street.
The town square is a 3 minute walk up the hill from the train station, where the Church of San Lorenzo built in 1338 in the Ligurian Gothic style sits.
Its local sandstone façade contains a gothic arch portal and a Carrara marble rose window from 1375.
We peeked inside the church and said a prayer before lunch.
Across from the church is one of many panoramic openings with views of the vertical landscape and valley.
Next to this gorgeous view, still opposite the church and in the square stands a bell tower built on the remains of an older lookout tower used in ancient times as a post to watch for potential pirate raids.
This small main square of the town is called Pazza Papa Innocenzo IV.
After admiring the views of Manarola from every opening we passed, we then focused on locating the restaurant for lunch that we had heard so much about, but you only find if you know where to look. It’s at the top of town and tucked away down a little lane.
Considered one of the very best restaurants in the Cinque Terre, Trattoria dal Billy is not to be missed, where three generations of fishermen and an excellent chef serve the products of this beautiful village, maintaining the region’s simplicity and traditions over time.
The restaurant is sought after for its location and epic views of the valley, located in the upper part of Manarola and consists of three terrace levels, one of which overlooks the sea, the village and the hills with gardens, vineyards and farms.
It’s hard to believe, but the views are not the only reason folks flock to the fabulous trattoria.
The food is what draws the crowds near and far. The restaurant preserves local dishes reflective of the catches of fisherman past, and also reflective of the land’s harvest from surrounding terraces, contrasting colors and flavors from the sea to the mountain.
The seafood pasta is a classic local dish of fresh shellfish tossed in garlic pasta.
While steak may not immediately come to mind when we think of Italian food, it is most definitely a northern Italian favorite.
Though he loves shrimp, they were definitely much larger than he was used to.
Cinque Terre is the birthplace of pesto sauce, likely due to the abundance and quality of basil in the region, so do not leave the villages without trying it. Made of fresh picked basil leaves ground in olive oil, together with raw garlic, pine nuts, and cheese, it’s heavenly, and considered more flavorful here than anywhere else in the world.
After a sweet ending, it’s time to start moving.
Manarola has more grapevines than any of the other five villages, and is famous for its sweet Sciacchetrà wine.
The village is super simple to navigate, as there’s really only one alley that runs straight up and down the center of town leading from the sea to the main square on the hill.
The next and last village is just a one minute train ride away, to Riomaggiore, the second oldest town in Cinque Terre, settled in the 8th century whose buildings are stacked tightly down a steep ravine to the harbor.
This village is a labyrinth of alleys and steps that radiate out from the main street.
These villages tend to be far less crowded as you walk away from the harbor.
A few minutes from the harbor we visited a simple stone church called Orotorio di Santa Maria Assunta built by Christians in the 16th century.
The church is home to an unusual 14th century wooden statue Madonna of the Chains which shows the Virgin Mary standing over chains meant to represent the kidnapping and enslavement of coastal inhabitants by pirates who raided the coast over the years. Just a couple of minutes from the buzzing harbor we had this church to ourselves for a prayer.
The narrow alleys are surprisingly cool since there’s quite a bit of shade due to the closely constructed houses.
Riomaggiore was also built in a river valley like Manarola, and the rivers have been covered and they run under each village.
Riomaggiore’s harbor is picture perfect, and I wished I could have spent more time lingering in it, but it had been a long day.
The houses here were constructed with two entrances, one at the front, and one at the back, because of the steep hills but also so families could escape during attacks.
We purchased ferry tickets at the harbor to take us back to Vernazza and waited for the next boat.
The unique biome of these coastal waters in the harbors of these villages is rich and nurturing for marine life, and why the fishing is so prolific.
Admiring Cinque Terre from the sea is a wonderful way to recap your day.
These ancient villages along this stretch of the Italian Rivera are some of the most unique in all of Italy.
As we passed Corniglia, the smallest and highest village, it’s clear why it was more protected from attacks than the other villages.
We landed from the ferry in the same spot as we were dropped yesterday, and wandered back into Vernazza.
Before returning to unwind in the room, we enjoyed once last gelato in this harbor during sunset.
While Vernazza is relatively flat, the narrow alleys leading out from the main pedestrian strip to the entrance to the homes are steep so we always prefer backpacks to luggage when we travel.
While the apartment had a washing machine, dryers are not as common in Europe as they are in the US, so we made use of the sea breeze like the locals and let the clothes air dry overnight.
Alas, it was time to explore a new land in the morning when we departed from the empty streets of Vernazza.
This UNESCO protected National Park was has been attracting visitors by the millions recently, but it’s still a simple, rustic destination with little to no crowds in some of the villages, for now. Go.
