The capital of the 13th colony, and one of America’s oldest planned cities, Savannah was set up on grids with garden squares that make it unlike any other city.
Savannah is ranked #2 among Travel + Leisure’s most environmentally friendly cities thanks in part due to its two dozen tree-lined squares plucked straight out of the 1700s.
Manicured parks, horse-drawn carriages, and pre-Civil War architecture, its historic district is filled with cobblestone squares and parks shaded by oak trees covered with Spanish moss. It feels like a garden instead of a city, different by definition from any other city in the world.
Itinerary
DAY 1
Forsyth Park
Mercer-Williams House
Madison Square
Sorrel-Weed House
Chippewa Square
Juliet-Gordon Low Birthplace
Olde Pink House
Ghost Tour
DAY 2
First African Baptist Church
Johnson Square
Lady & Sons
Wright Square
Lafayette Square
Cathedral of St. John the Baptist
Colonial Park Cemetery
Owens-Thomas House
Pirates’ House
DAY 1
We’ve visited Savannah three times. Twice, as day trips from Hilton Head, SC, and once we stayed overnight.
Hotel Indigo in the Historic District is an ideal choice for its location in the shopping, dining, and entertainment district along the river and steps away from many tours. Known to locals as the “Grand Lady on the Bay”, it was a 19th-century dry goods storage house and shop, filled with everything from tobacco to canned peaches, and became the city’s first true coffeehouse in the 1950s. Now, the Grand Lady is as a charming modern boutique hotel.
Their southern twist on summer evening favorites were a hit for adults and children alike.
We started at the southern end of Forsyth Park arriving via Old Town Trolley Tours, getting off at the stop on the southern end of the park and made our way north. This provides you the option of hopping on and off at any of their 15 stops throughout the city if you get too tired or hot to walk. Aboard the trolley you can listen to a live 90 minute narration in the air-conditioning for as long or as little as you prefer.
Forsyth Park is to Savannah, what Central Park is to New York City. The 30 acre park includes walking paths, a playground with a cafe, as well as our favorite aspect, the “Fragrant Garden for the Blind” where the flowers were selected for their scent instead of their appearance.
The fountain is the icon of Savannah, and has been featured in the movies “Forrest Gump” and “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.” When this city was formally designed in the 1800’s, France was a nation admired by Savannah’s elite, and so they designed their city inspired by French fountains, parks, squares, and boulevard promenades.
This cast iron fountain was erected in 1858. The fountain was actually ordered from a catalog, in which it was known as Model No. 5, and an identical fountain is located in Madison, Indiana.
The fountain’s spray is designed to provide a cooling mist during hot summer afternoons, and every St. Patrick’s Day the water is dyed green.
The bronze Civil War Memorial has sat in the park since 1879 with a large soldier on top, though until 2018 it was called the Confederate War Memorial. This is also the location where the men who fought for the South drilled in the park before being sent to war.
The city’s greenery shades you from the blistering sun.
The thoughtfully designed city’s tree-lined streets really do provide all day sun protection.
Savannah is considered one of America’s most haunted cities, perhaps due to the bloody Civil War, yellow fever epidemics in the 1800s, or the numerous murders that took place. If you like ghost stories, this is the town for you. There are NO shortage of haunted houses, with each block claiming theirs is the most haunted.
Two blocks from Forsyth Park is the Mercer-Williams House made popular by the movie “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil”. The house has seen many tragedies, including a shooting and a little boy who fell to his death, so it’s no surprise that the people who have called it home have been more affected by hauntings than any other citizen of Savannah. The house is open to the public as a museum.
Less than a 5 minute walk north is the beautiful Madison Square, which contains the Sorrel-Weed House, and was the first house in Georgia to be designated as a state landmark in 1953.
Aside from 2 brutal suicides that occurred in this house, one was the owner’s wife, and the other his slave and mistress, paranormal experts believe a single historic event may have caused it to become a hotbed for ghostly activity. The house was built shortly after the Revolutionary War on the land where the Siege of Savannah occurred. So many soldiers were massacred during battle that it became known as the bloodiest hour of the entire American Revolution.
Another 5 minute walk north is Chippewa Square, which was made famous when Forrest Gump waited for the bus on a bench here with his box of chocolates narrating the movie.
The bench is no longer there, and it now sits in the Savannah History Museum. The statue in the center is of James Oglethorpe, the founder of the colony of Georgia.
Another block over is the home of the first Girl Scout, the beloved Juliette “Daisy” Gordon Low. She was the woman who organized the Girl Scouts in 1912 in Savannah, Georgia, who believed in the power of every girl to change the world.
Her house is now a museum owned and operated by the Girl Scouts of the USA, and there’s a statue of her in the gardens.
A 10 minute walk north and you’ll arrive at the Olde Pink House. Opening in 1771, it was originally white, but turned pink as the brick bled through the plaster. A National Landmark, this Georgian Mansion was built on land granted by the crown of England to James Habersham Jr., and this wealthy planter’s home held many secret meetings which helped to secure the independence of the 13 colonies from England.
This stately mansion’s dining rooms maintain the look and feel of an earlier time.
You could order sushi, but I’m a firm believer that when in Rome, so go with the fried chicken when you’re in the deep south.
Unfortunately he missed the majority of the meal on an important last minute call for the National Fragile X Foundation, which is the non-profit he serves as Treasurer of the Board on, for the rare genetic condition our son was born with called Fragile X Syndrome.
He did make it back in time for desert to enjoy the hot southern pecan pie.
The kids opted for something more fruity.
After a leisurely meal in the air-conditioning, we explored the remainder of the historical home.
In this large upstairs dining room there are many hidden animals within the paintings on the wall, which guests try to find during lavish parties.
Spotted one! It’s harder than it sounds considering the size of the room and the paintings.
There are numerous floors with various style dining spots throughout. This upstairs room is slightly more intimate, but slightly more spooky.
Civil War Union General Sherman presented the city of Savannah as a Christmas gift to President Abraham Lincoln. General York set up headquarters in the Olde Pink Mansion and the rooms once again made history.
In 1811 the house became the Planter’s Bank and the first bank in Georgia, housing the monies of all the colonists. Still in operation today, the massive cast-iron vaults with dungeon like doors are used as wine cellars.
Only in America’s most haunted city does the hostess tell you, “Go downstairs, that’s where the ghosts are.”
And is it my imagination, or is that an apparition my camera picked up behind the chair? Seriously, what is that?
I can only imagine how super creepy the basement bar area is during the evening.
Sure, it’s all cute midday.
As one of America’s most haunted cities, there’s no shortage of ghost tours. We booked a 1 mile walking ghost tour that hits many of the haunted mansions and started just a short walk from our hotel. There are also family friendly versions of the ghost tours for those traveling with younger children. There’s also a tour that you ride in a hearse, and if that’s not high enough on the creepy meter for you, there’s also tours that bring you deep into the cemetery late at night.
DAY 2
One block from the hotel is the First African Baptist Church. At over 247 years old, it’s older than the United States. Built by slaves under moonlight with money they could have used to purchase their freedom, it’s the epitome of Matthew 6:33, “seek first the kingdom of God…and all these things will be added.” They finished in 1861, and less than 2 years later President Abraham Lincoln signed the Emancipation Proclamation freeing slaves.
A 5 minute walk takes you to Johnson Square, which was the first square built in Savannah. Therefore, it’s the oldest and largest square in the city. It’s named after Robert Johnson, the Royal Governor of South Carolina in 1733, because of his help growing the colony. The 50-foot marble monument honors General Nathanael Greene, a hero during the American Revolution, and his remains are placed beneath the monument.
The sundial, surrounded by four mosaic-tiled panels also sits in the square, serving to recognize Colonel William Bull of SC and the aid he provided General Oglethorpe who established Savannah.
A block away is Paula Deen’s The Lady & Sons. In 1989, a single mom named Paul Deen, who was suffering from panic attacks and agoraphobia, started “The Bag Lady” out of her home as a lunch delivery service with her sons to local businesses. This grew into the restaurant it is today, but get there at least an hour before it opens, as the lines wrap around the block pretty quickly.
We coordinated our trip to Savannah on a day when one of my son’s favorite chefs was in town. And to my surprise, when I notified the restaurant of my son’s genetic condition so they would be aware of any behaviors he may have engaged in while standing in line, her assistant reached out and arranged for us to be the first guests to meet her.
There’s a lovely gift shop inside the restaurant filled with southern goodies, cooking supplies, and souvenirs. We picked up some cookbooks for her to sign.
The photographer had an autistic son, and was absolutely wonderful with our family. In my experience, it usually pays to openly share your circumstances, as time and again, I’ve been surprised what people then openly share back that enriches the human bond we all share.
We didn’t dine here during this visit since the book signing was well before lunchtime, but we have before. The buffet spread is southern comfort food at its very best, including fried chicken, bbq ribs, mac & cheese, black-eyed peas, corn bread, collard greens, and sweet and mashed potatoes.
After meeting Paula Deen and picking out some goodies in her gift shop, we wandered over to Wright Square, named after Georgia’s 3rd and last Royal Governor. One of the original 4 squares laid out in Savannah, it was also built above burial grounds of where the bodies of those first buried in Savannah were laid to rest, though not all of them are at peace. Wright Square is also the site of the Lutheran Church of Ascension.
Also referred to as the Post Office Square, the Courthouse Square, and the Hanging Square, this square has two of the most impressive monuments in downtown, including a memorial to William Washington Gordon, the founder of the Central Georgia Railroad. The monument consists of four red granite columns supporting four winged figures holding a globe. The four figures represent agriculture, manufacturing, commerce and art, symbolizing that together, they make the world prosper.
The other monument in the square is Tomo-Chi-Chi’s Grave, a leader of the Yamacraws who offered peace and cooperation with the early colonists. Though he was originally buried here in the center of the square, which marked Savannah’s 1st monument, 100 years later his remains were controversially removed to make way for William Washington Gordon, a prominent politician and businessman. There’s now there’s another memorial made of granite that stands at the southeast corner of the square for Tomo-Chi-Chi.
A 5 minute walk to Lafayette Square is one of the most rewarding.
Laid out in 1837, to the north is the gorgeous Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, one of the city’s most famous landmarks.
Savannah’s first Catholic church was founded in 1700 by the French Colonists, but it was destroyed by fire. The French-Gothic style with twin spires, pointed arches and magnificent detail we admire today against the skyline, was constructed in 1799. In 2020, Pope Francis granted this cathedral the title of Minor Basilica, making it the first basilica in the Diocese of Savannah. Nationwide, there are just 18 cathedrals that carry this designation.
Italian marble, Austrian stained glass, and Persian rugs decorate the interior.
We try to visit a house of worship everyday on vacation to count our blessings as often as we can.
A block away is the Colonial Park Cemetery, considered to be one of Savannah’s most haunted places. Opened in 1750, it’s the final resting place of over 10,000 people, many of whom are buried in mass graves. Furthermore, during the Civil War, troops occupied the cemetery as a headquarters for soldiers, and desecrated many of the graves damaging headstones with bullets. Many visitors experience cool spots and apparitions.
Another block over is the Owens-Thomas House, considered the nation’s preeminent example of English Regency architecture, aesthetically the same as Bath, England.
Built in 1819 by one of the first professionally trained architects in the US, this was the home of a family of cotton merchants and bankers.
It’s considered one of Savannah’s most haunted mansions, with an account told by James “Jim” Arthur Williams, who was immortalized in the novel “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” and portrayed by Kevin Spacey in the film. One evening Williams and his business partner both had an encounter with a ghost in the 1960’s. Over the years, many guests and museum guides have shared their encounters with various ghosts in the home.
Less than a 5 minute walk, this little building dates back to 1754 and is considered to be the oldest building in Georgia. This haunted, preserved building is in its original state, including the haint blue shutters and doors to keep away the unwanted spirits.
Step into The Pirate’s House for a taste of Savannah in the mid 1700’s when sailors came off the seas to eat hearty meals, share a story about their adventures and raise a ruckus.The beloved book “Treasure Island” written by Robert Louis Stevenson, mentions The Pirates’ House in Savannah and a pirate by the name of Captain John Flint.
Captain Flint amassed considerable loot and subsequently buried it on a deserted island. It is said he died in Savannah from drinking too much rum. His treasure map was given to Billy Bones who helps set the adventure in motion for the main characters.
Stevenson was inspired to write the tale while visiting the Inn, and early edition pages can be found on the walls.
Th Inn was a rendezvous for pirates and visiting sailors from the Seven Seas. Many tales have been shared about those who came through the doors. There are multiple tunnels below the building that led back to the Savannah River allegedly used by pirates to stock their ship’s crew with unsuspecting men.
Today, it’s a restaurant featuring authentic Georgia cuisine served in a theme reminiscent of its early roots.
They’ve also tried to make it fun for the kids to dial down the creepiness.
It’s buffet style, offering every southern comfort food imaginable, allowing you to get in and out quickly with plenty of time to examine all 15 historical dining rooms.
Fried food and heat aren’t the best combo, so be mindful of the weather as you load your plate.
After lunch, since it was the hottest part of the day, you may want to hop on the trolley at the stop out front like we did and ride around in the air conditioning listening to the tour guide so you don’t overheat from digesting that lunch. You’ll ride by various buildings of SCAD, Savannah College of Art and Design, which offered the south’s first theater in 1946 with adjustable air conditioning.
When you’re ready to hop off, enjoy the leisurely stroll back to your room in this garden city, like no other.
Scented, flowering trees burst over city walls.
Sidewalks explode with greenery.
City streets are jungle-like, in this most beautiful city of Savannah.
Where else would even an Animal Hospital be so grand and enchanting? Go.
