It’s Europe west of the Atlantic. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Old Quebec City is the only walled city north of Mexico and over 400 years old.
Just a few hours drive from New England, Old Quebec City feels a continent apart. If you’re short on time, this Canadian destination checks all of the boxes for a fabulous international vacation that can be done during a long weekend sans flights for a mere fraction of the cost of flying to Europe.
This UNESCO World Heritage site is surrounded by towering fortresses with lavish castles, and ancient cobblestone streets within its fortifications, that contain charming cafes, shops, and historic attractions.
Itinerary
DAY 1
Québec City’s Walls
Notre-Dame-de-Québec Basilica
Terrasse Dufferin
Château Frontenac
Quartier Petit-Champlain
Place Royale
DAY 2
Old Port
Montmorency Falls
DAY 1
There’s no shortage of accommodations in Quebec. If you prefer American sized rooms, amenities such as a heated rooftop pool with sweeping city views, a gym, and parking, all just a stone’s throw from the old city gate, the Hilton is an excellent choice. The photo below is of the Hilton straight ahead as you exit the old city gate. Check-in and then head through the gate into the old city to explore.
You can’t miss the historic ramparts of Quebec City, spanning almost 5km of one of the first European settlements in North America, founded in 1608. There are numerous gates into the old city with staircases leading to the top providing panoramic views from above. They’re free to walk, unlike in some cities such as Dubrovnik, where it cost a family of four $80 to walk the city walls.
Also unlike in other cities, you can freely go up and down from the walls as often as you wish.
Pop into a bakery for some hot coffee and soft warm treats while you walk. Paillard has a large selection of goodies to choose from.
Enjoy the empty streets during the cooler fall months.
Old Quebec is small and therefore very walk-able, without the need for any public transportation to get to any of the sights.
Make your way to Notre-Dame-de-Québec Basilica. Also free to enter, the Basilica has stood on the same spot since 1647, making it one of the oldest cathedrals in North America. The exterior is less impressive than the gilded gold interior.
The altar canopy is supported by the walls and sits on angel sculptures which was the ingenious solution to a very narrow chancel since there’s little room for large columns to support it.
The stained glass windows were designed in Munich and Paris.
As you exit the Basilica, you’ll pass the Séminaire de Québec where the Roman Catholic priests reside. Built between the 17th-20th centuries, but burned to the ground twice, you’ll notice the various architectural styles.
A few minutes away is the walkway called Terrasse Dufferin which leads to Château Frontenac, claimed to be the most photographed hotel in the world. Built by the Canadian Pacific Railway company as one of the first grand railway hotels, World War II allies met here twice in 1943 and 1944 respectively, including American President Franklin Delano Roosevelt and British Prime Minister Winston Churchill to discuss strategy for World War II.
Surrounding the hotel, atop Cape Diamond with views of the St. Lawrence River, the Terrasse Dufferin walkway is where you catch the funicular down to the Old Port.
Before heading to the lower part of the city, grab some lunch at Le Chic Shack across the boardwalk next to the Musee du Fort.
This joint offers delicious burgers, poutines, salads, shakes and sodas crafted from fresh quality ingredients that have been carefully sourced from a select group of local purveyors.
It’s a quick casual dining spot, that won’t take away precious time from exploring the city.
Order the homemade maple and pepper chips.
They don’t sell any commercial soda, only serving their own. The Chic cola is superb with a hint of floral tones, as are their thick creamy milkshakes.
After lunch wander back to the Funicular to ride it down to the cute Quartier Petit-Champlain.
The funicular drops you in the middle of the adorable Quartier Petit-Champlain, the oldest shopping district in North America. Small boutiques and cafes line the narrow cobblestone street. One of the houses in this neighborhood belonged to Louis Jolliet, the French Canadian explorer credited with discovering the Mississippi River.
The streets are picturesque, and it doesn’t get much more quaint.
Le Lapin Sauté is one of the most raved about dining spots in the old city, known for rabbit.
This was pretty much the most crowded we saw it anywhere.
If you see something fun, get it. When else will you come across Canadian maple taffy chilling on ice?
If you keep walking, you’ll end up at Place-Royale, the birthplace of the French colony, and the previous center of business and industry with a thriving marketplace that housed wealthy merchants. This is a charming square with cafes spilling out onto it.
Make sure you select a variety for everyone to sample and then grab a seat to enjoy them in the warm sun.
They were gone fast, and we have happy customers.
In the middle of the square is a tribute to its French Colonial past, a striking bust of Louis XIV.
Overlooking the square stands the Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, the oldest stone church in North America.
A few feet away from the square is the impressive Fresque des Québécois, which illustrates 400 years of the city’s history.
The murals look real at quick glance.
Along this road are also exposed remains of the Gaillard and Soulard houses from the 1600s.
On the way back to the hotel, stop at the oldest grocery store in North America to pick up some evening snacks. This old general store is just around the corner from the Hilton, and less than a 5 minute walk from the Port Saint-Louis gate.
J.A. Moisan was founded in 1871, and although the inside of this general store is reminiscent of yesteryear, the selection is modern with many local jams, pastries, and cheeses to pack for a picnic or to take back to your room.
After a long day, you can enjoy a swim in the heated rooftop pool overlooking the old city and rest up for tomorrow.
DAY 2
Rise and shine, it’s time for breakfast.
Bundle up, cross the street and enter the Porte Kent gate into the old city.
The city is so photogenic we’re going to be late for breakfast.
It’s impressive how the old city has managed to maintain its architectural charm over the last four centuries, and isn’t overrun with strip malls.
There’s no denying its European roots, you’d think you were in France if you didn’t know better.
Head toward the Old Port for breakfast, which was one of the five biggest ports in the world in the early 19th century.
The city was founded by French explorer Samuel de Champlain in 1608 when the first French explorers, fur trappers, and missionaries arrived to establish a colony.
Along the Old Port, the streets are lined with antique stores, restaurants, and art galleries.
Le Buffet De L’Antiquaire has been a Quebec institution for over 40 years. Fisherman, policemen, regulars, and tourists fill the small space, so get there early.
We felt like the only tourists at that hour when they opened, as many of the tables seated around us seemed to know the staff personally.
Fresh baked in-house bread and baked beans come out of the kitchen piping hot.
Eggs cooked to order with french toast served with maple syrup from maple farms on the south shore are not to be missed.
After a full breakfast, walk it off back across town. This establishment is consistently ranked one of the best in the city, serving old fashioned Quebec cuisine.
One thing the kids want to do in every city is take a carriage ride, which gives little legs a break.
The kids remember the horses names from every city. Meet Rosie.
This ride included the driver’s dog as a bonus. Meet Winston.
It’s nice to learn from locals what they think of their city, and we always get very different answers. We learned how proud he was that Quebec is one of the safest cities in North America with only 6-7 murders a year, and in 2007 there was not even a single one.
Legend has it if you rub this cannonball (though actually a bomb) in the tall old elm tree on Rue du Corps that was fired into the city by the British artillery in 1759, it’s good luck.
After our ride, we went back to the hotel to pick up our car for a ride out of town.
Just a 15 minute drive from Quebec is Montmorency Falls. At 272 feet, it’s nearly 100 feet higher than Niagara Falls.
You can walk across the suspension bridge or zip line across it.
If that isn’t adventurous enough for you, take the trek down the panoramic staircase to the bottom.
Otherwise, there’s a cable car to the bottom as well.
The mist from the falls freezes in the winter, accumulating at the foot of the falls forming what is known as the “sugar loaf”, and in some years the icy mass reaches epic proportions.
When you’ve soaked in the views, drive back to town for a warm traditional Quebec meal at a place that will leave a lasting impression.
Under a 10 minute walk from the hotel, just within the Port Saint-Louie gate shown in the photo above, is La Buche. Complete with animal skins adorned on the wall, this place serves traditional Quebec cuisine with a modern twist.
Graffiti is encouraged, and apparently is everyone’s pastime during their meal.
Of the ~30 countries we’ve dined in, this was our first experience unable to converse with our server. Between a menu in French and her inability to speak English, nor our ability to speak French, we resorted to pointing and then crossed our fingers.
Turns out, you can’t really go wrong here. Plus, what’s not to love about fries covered in cheese and meat?
But the lasing impression doesn’t stop upstairs. In the basement restroom, everything was also covered in graffiti.
A universal restroom, where everyone shares the stalls and sink.
Quebec has solved the restroom enigma, providing a one size fits all solution that also includes families and anyone else who may need assistance including the disabled.
If you’re within driving distance of Quebec, what are you waiting for? Go.
