Described in 1910 by George Bernard Shaw, a famed Irish writer and Nobel Prize Winner, as the “most impossible and fantastic rock in the world”, Skellig Michael is a remote island off the coast of Ireland that was inhabited since the 6th century.
One of only 2 UNESCO World Heritage sites in Ireland, the magnificent Skellig Michael was constructed by monks who lived here from the 6th to the 12th centuries with a steep 618 step climb to the ancient monastery perched atop this rock bursting out of the sea.
Named after the Archangel Michael, who here helped St. Patrick banish the snakes of Ireland into the sea, it’s been a place of pilgrimage and penance for centuries.
Skellig Michael is the most westerly sacred site in Europe, and has been attracting visitors for over 1500 years.
ITINERARY
Portmagee
The Moorings and Bridge Bar
Little Skellig
Skellig Michael Island
Portmagee is a tiny fishing village located along Ireland’s famous Wild Atlantic Way, known for its dramatic green coastline that spills into the ocean, and the working Portmagee pier is one of the launching points to the Skellig Islands.
The quaint one street village packs a mighty punch lined with its brightly colored houses.
When you arrive, spend 10 minutes strolling the street along the harbor and admire the lovely local homes.
We thoroughly enjoyed the American size lattes uncommon in Europe, but found in many gas stations during our Irish road trip brewed with the push of a button of fancy barista machines.
For a local dinner duck into the The Moorings located at the pier serving the Atlantic Ocean’s bounty fished from its doorstep.
The seasonal menu is based on the availability of the best local seafood and produce, and in its Irish pub “The Bridge Bar” you can listen to traditional Irish live music. We also stayed here in the rooms above the dining room and parked our car along the sidewalk right out front. You can not beat the convenience of a small village.
Portmagee was put on the map when the Star Wars Trilogy VII, VIII and IX was filmed on the Skellig Islands, and fans will enjoy this pub which was a hang out for the cast and crew.
This pub is where Mark Hamill aka Jedi Master Luke Skywalker poured pints of Guinness.
The candlelit tables and traditional stone wall interior is hung with nautical objects including ship wheels and fishing nets, creating a cozy coastal atmosphere inviting diners to linger past dessert and coffee.
From warm home-made brown bread with butter to fresh fish and shellfish, to hearty Irish beef stews and locally grown vegetables, a meal here is sure to be a highlight of your visit to the Emerald Isle.
After your meal wander across the street to the dock and pay your respects to the brave souls who lost their life at sea along these shores providing for their families and communities.
Before you retire for the evening, let the front desk know you’d like them to pack a picnic lunch for your trip to the Skellig Islands in the morning, and it will be waiting for you when you arrive for breakfast. As you snuggle into bed with the hope that good news awaits you in the morning, make sure you have a plan B for tomorrow since tours are cancelled 30% of the time due to weather.
Rise and shine! By the time you arrive at your breakfast table, you’ve already been informed by the front desk if your boat can sail or not. We were a go, so we especially enjoyed the traditional Irish breakfast spread before departure that included roasted tomatoes and potatoes, eggs, baked beans, toast, and raspberry jam with coffee and juice and so much more.
The porridge and crepes were a hit with the boys, and fueled them up for the strenuous climb ahead.
It doesn’t get much better for me than hot out of the oven flaky buttery croissants and warm Irish scones with cool creamy hazelnut yogurt.
Calm seas permitting, licensed boats run from Portmagee and sell out months in advance, because to protect the site, the Office of Public Works limits the number of visitors to 180 per day.
I had read every review, blog and website, and watched every video I could find published, multiple times, to determine if this would be feasible with children, especially with my child who has Fragile X Syndrome. I concluded it would be doable in a best case scenario, and disastrous in a worst case scenario, and there was a 30% chance the trip would be cancelled the morning of our tour after organizing an entire trip to Ireland around the only sailing date we were able to book. We sailed with Skellig Michael Cruises, and I had called in advance to discuss my concerns with the captain before committing.
The first of many obstacles is the 7 mile sail known to be wet and rough, causing many to become seasick during the 1 hour journey in open waters before landing at Skellig Michael, so I was hoping we’d first survive the boat ride and not land with dirty clothes and upset stomachs.
Cruising out of the calm harbor you’ll enjoy tranquil views of the village and rolling Irish hills.
You’ll shortly exit the harbor and enter the Atlantic Ocean on your way to the Skellig Islands, whose first reference to them was a shipwreck around 1400BC.
“The purpose of life is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience.” – Eleanor Roosevelt
You’ll reach Small Skellig Island first, which has never been inhabited, but is instead a sanctuary for Ireland’s largest seabirds, where these Gannets can fill the sky and blanket the island in a cover of white.
This is one of the most important sites for breeding seabirds in Ireland, and the 2nd largest colony of gannets in the world, home to over 70,000.
Thankfully we reached the Skellig Islands unscathed, escaping any bouts of seasickness that plague so many who travel here.
As we pulled away from Little Skellig, numerous obstacles still awaited.
The largest of the Skellig Islands is spectacular Skellig Michael, home to one of the earliest monastic settlements in Ireland, or home to the ancient Jedi texts, if that’s what drew you here.
We waited for our boat’s turn to approach the landing since there is only one safe spot.
Even today, Skellig Michael remains isolated and difficult to reach, with NO facilities on the island, including no toilets, which can make for a very stressful visit knowing you can be 6 hours without access to a toilet, perhaps even more stressful when traveling with children. In case of emergency, there is zero privacy anywhere on this barren island, and visitors are not allowed to step off of ancient walkways and paths for safety reasons. I did my homework to ensure our boat had facilities incase we needed them before we disembarked.
It’s difficult to dock on this rocky island made up of steep cliffs rising from the agitated sea, and it’s this condition around the island that dictates if boats can make the journey, because it’s impossible to dock up otherwise.
Stepping off of the boat can be the most difficult and dangerous part of the journey according to the safety video published by the Office of Public Works, and I was most worried about this aspect of the trip for my son with Fragile X Syndrome since those with the syndrome often have difficulty with proprioception, or coordination. The sea causes the boat to bob in the inlet alternating between large gaps and banging into the edge of the steps.
With the help of crew we successfully disembarked and began the walk toward the steps. Apply sunscreen and pack plenty of water, food for the day, and water proof clothing since weather conditions can change rapidly.
Skellig Michael is covered with thousands of puffins during the summer who breed here.
Although Skellig Michael was a popular pilgrimage destination for centuries, it had no permanent residents in the 1500s after the monks left. It wasn’t until the 19th century that it became inhabited again when two lighthouses were built and their keepers lived here with their families.
After the paved walkway ends, you’ll approach the beginning of the 1,000 year old 600 step climb to the top, and this is where 2 American tourists visiting on different days tragically fell to their death in the same summer when they slipped off a narrow path along a 30 foot drop on one side. A guide will stop you and brief you before you can proceed to this point.
The safety video suggests holding the chain railing for safety and we also held our children tightly as we crossed this short section which takes only 3-4 steps to cross.
This is another view of that section, and it wasn’t nearly as treacherous as I had imagined with plenty of space for your feet to safely cross, but I was prepared to turn around even if we had made it this far if I didn’t feel we could cross safely.
Some visitors decide the lighthouse path leading up to the steps is as far as they feel comfortable going.
The monks constructed 3 sets of steps up to the monastery which provided access during differing weather conditions, and are known as the East, South and North Steps. However, only the South Steps are accessible by the public.
After 15 minutes or so you’ll arrive at Christ’s Saddle, situated between Skellig Michael’s two peaks, and the only flat part of the island. There are traces of medieval crop farming here.
Puffins arrive on the island in late spring and they are found on every ledge, tucked under every stone and also in the hollow spongy grass, so visitors should not leave the steps so that you don’t step on them.
This early religious settlement was so well preserved because of its isolation and difficulty in accessing the site.
Christ’s Saddle is the recommended spot for a picnic lunch, so we sat down and took a break while we opened the packed lunches before we headed up to the monastery.
Up these steps the monks founded an ancient settlement in their quest for ultimate solitude.
After enjoying the panoramic views while eating our sandwiches, we began the final climb.
To avoid disturbing the structural integrity of the site, construction has remained at a minimum, but there are some chain railings along along this section of steep, old, and uneven steps.
The vertical climb up this uninhabited island is not for the faint of heart and this last staircase is prone to wind.
If you’re afraid of heights, this isn’t the day trip for you.
Puffins are generally quiet birds and live from their underwater hunting, which because of their wings, make them excellent swimmers.
The ancient stone pathways are mostly flat up here near the monastery, with phenomenal views of Little Skellig.
It’s recommended to stay toward the inside and middle of the steps.
It’s no wonder this magnificent island was chosen as the location Luke Skywalker went into exile, as it’s been a real life outpost for sanctuary, refuge and seclusion for hundreds of years for hermit monks of the early Christian era.
This mystical island was chosen by early Irish Christians in their search for solitude to get closer to God, and the views from the summit are astounding.
The site was attacked on numerous occasions by the Vikings throughout the 800s.
The views can be dizzying when you look down.
For 600 years this island was a center of monastic life for Irish Christian monks, and almost 1,500 years later these structures still stand in remarkable condition for their age, including this entrance to the monastery.
The monks slept in stone huts perched above nearly vertical cliff walls.
The monks would descend the 618 steps early every morning to fish for the day’s meals and spend the afternoons praying in church, tending their gardens, and studying.
The monks led simple lives in these stone, beehive shaped huts, which which are round on the outside and rectangular on the inside, carefully built so that no drop of rain could enter between the stones. This was the hut Luke Skywalker lived in.
The rudimentary conditions of the monastery illustrate the simple lifestyle of early Christians.
It’s estimated that no more than 12 monks lived here at any given time.
After Skellig Michael was abandoned by the monks in the 13th century it was used for weddings and other religious ceremonies.
How these were constructed to shelter monks in this harsh climate, and to survive the centuries speaks to the genius and craftmanship of the time.
High retaining walls support all the terracing, on which everything is constructed.
Within the monastery is St. Michael’s Church and a graveyard. There are also more than 100 stone crosses of varying sizes on the island.
All that stands of the medieval church is its eastern window in a wall distinct from the other buildings, containing imported stone from the nearby Valentia Island, quite the feat. A relatively modern grave referring to the lighthouse caretaker families of 1868 was erected around that time.
The weather suddenly changed while we were exploring the monastery, and we began our descent hoping to avoid wet slippery rock.
Skellig Michael becomes even more dramatic amid swirling clouds, but not where you want to be when the weather rolls in.
More accidents occur on the descent, so take precaution on each step. In just 5 minutes, the clouds had almost completely carpeted the island and we could no longer see the sea.
We safely made it to Christ’s Saddle, and headed for the lower section of the staircase.
You see see the puffins tucked under the rocks where they nest and burrow.
Sometime in August they all leave the island.
The staircases change direction often and sometimes abruptly, so pay attention since that sign isn’t going to prevent you from stepping over the ledge.
The Skellig Michael scenes from the Star Wars Trilogy Episodes VII, VIII, and IX were filmed here in 2014, 2015, and 2017 respectively. The Wailing Woman Stone, one of the Stations of the Cross on the island, is where Rey swung the lightsaber during her Jedi training with Luke Skywalker and sliced this rock in half.
We safely reached the paved walkway at the bottom and saw our boats anchored off the coast waiting for us.
I had studied Skellig Michael in college during a semester of Irish Art, so it was a place I had always wanted to experience long before it ever made an appearance on the big screen in the Star Wars Trilogy. However, as an avid Star Wars fan, the visit was that much more anticipated, and lived up to every expectation.
The weather couldn’t have been more different from the clear blue skies that greeted us when we arrived, which helps put into perspective the monumental challenges the monks faced both while building this remote monastery, as well as surviving this climate year round.
Skellig Michael is a once in a lifetime experience and should be on any Ireland itinerary.
The climb took its toll with sleep overtaking despite the boat hitting wave after wave spraying the deck.
No one knows what the future holds for Skellig Michael, or if it will withstand the test of time. Rockfalls are becoming more common, causing the site to close off and on, and archaeologists have warned burrowing by nesting puffins and prolonged dry spells have damaged the vegetation which contributes to the falls. If you visit Ireland, put Skellig Michael on your list while it is still around. Go.
